Hotfix or non-hotfix flatback? Which one for which project?

When you shop for rhinestones, you will see two broad categories: hotfix and non-hotfix (usually just called "flatback"). They look almost identical from the front. The difference is on the back, and it changes everything about how you apply them and how well they stay put.

Non-hotfix flatback

A rhinestone with a flat, plain back. No glue, no heat needed. You apply it with an adhesive of your choice.

Best for: tumblers, phone cases, picture frames, shoes, any rigid or non-fabric surface. Also the right choice for delicate fabrics that can't take heat.

How you apply it: put a small dab of craft glue (E6000, GemTac, B-7000 all work) on the project surface, use a wax-tipped pick-up tool to grab the stone and place it precisely. Let cure per the glue's instructions.

Pros: most durable if the right glue is used, works on any surface, no special tools needed beyond a pick-up tool and glue.

Cons: slower to apply than hotfix, glue can be messy, full cure can take 24 to 72 hours.

Hotfix

A flatback rhinestone with a layer of heat-activated adhesive already applied to the back. You heat it, it bonds. No separate glue needed.

Best for: clothing and fabric (t-shirts, leotards, dance costumes), anything that can take heat and needs the stones to flex with the fabric.

How you apply it: either a heat press set to the temperature the manufacturer recommends, or a handheld hotfix wand with a tip sized to your stone. Position the stone, apply heat for the recommended time, let it cool before moving.

Pros: much faster for large projects, clean (no glue mess), very durable on fabric when applied at the right temperature.

Cons: needs heat equipment, glue can yellow with age if stored too long unused, not ideal for heat-sensitive fabrics or rigid surfaces.

Can I use both on the same project?

Yes. Many artists use hotfix for the bulk of a garment and non-hotfix for tricky spots (seams, zipper areas, hard-to-press corners). Just know you are committing to two different application methods and two different tool setups.

Tools you actually need

For non-hotfix:

• Wax-tipped pick-up tool (sometimes called a pick-up pencil or stone-setter)
• Craft glue rated for fabric or rigid surfaces (E6000, GemTac, B-7000 are common)
• Optional: a tweezer for repositioning
• Optional: a non-stick mat or silicone surface to rest your project on

For hotfix:

• A hotfix wand with size-matched tips, or a heat press
• A heat-resistant pressing cloth (for protecting fabric)
• Optional: transfer tape or template to lay out your design before pressing

Care for the finished piece

Wearing and washing. Both types hold up well when applied correctly. For garments, turn the piece inside out before washing, use cold water, and avoid the dryer when possible. Lay flat to dry.

Ironing. Never iron directly over rhinestones. If you need to iron a garment, flip it inside out and press the back only.

Tumblers. Hand wash only. The dishwasher will loosen the glue on non-hotfix applications.

Long-term storage. Keep projects out of direct sunlight when possible. Prolonged UV can yellow some adhesives and fade color coatings on less expensive stones.

When things go wrong

Stone falls off. On fabric, re-apply with a hotfix wand if the backing is intact, or dot a bit of GemTac around the base and press back on. On rigid surfaces, clean the old glue off with a razor blade and re-glue.

Glue looks yellow. This is often a sign of heat damage or old hotfix glue. Replace the stone rather than trying to clean it.

Stones cloudy or dull. Usually dried glue or skin oils on the surface. Gently wipe with a soft cloth and a tiny amount of isopropyl alcohol. Avoid harsh cleaners.